Everything You Need To Know About Men's Suits
Updated: Sep 13, 2021
How To Create A Men’s Capsule Wardrobe
Who makes the best men’s suits, you ask? We should begin with finding out what the “best” means to you. Does the best mean a brand name? Do you mean what company sells the most units per fiscal year? Who has the best fabric? Who is best at fitting a garment to account for my exact body specifications? Who makes me feel most comfortable in my suits? Who makes me feel confident? Who is the most consistent? Is this their career or just a job to pay the bills?
When it comes down to it, you want to look and feel both confident and comfortable. You want to feel appropriately dressed for the situation or event you are attending. And you don’t want to rush out and grab something every time an event comes up.
When buying a suit, there is a lot to consider. Many people wear a suit when required and do not want to put a lot of time and effort into getting it right. They are your businessmen, attorneys, people in the financial world, and those who strictly dress up for special events. The difference in having that attitude at a department store versus a competent custom clothier is the result.
Department Store Suits
Go to a department store and tell them you are looking for a suit. They may or may not take a few measurements and then take you to the section that carries your size. A 40 jacket means your chest measures 40 inches in circumference. These are the criteria used to find a ready-made suit for a man. Know the chest size.
Using this method can achieve a garment that generally fits your body. It will typically have extra room in certain places; The sleeves, back, and belly, and even the shoulders may be a little off. This is because the garment was factory-made for the average body type of someone with a 40-chest measurement. What’s not considered in making that type of garment are things like your posture, how your shoulders sit, if you work out or are trying to lose weight, and we could go on, but we will leave it at that.
What Should I Consider When Buying a Suit?
When you purchase a head-to-toe garment that is mostly based off of ONE measurement, then more than likely, it’s not going to look or feel the way you want. There are, of course, some exceptions. If you happen to have the body type the designer of the garment had in mind when designing it, you are in luck. Just hope they keep making those garments the same way. The thing is, though, this often works until trends change. Then the cut of the overall garments is altered across the board. Think thinner lapels, tighter trousers, flat front, cuff/no cuff, and other trends that come and go with the times.
When you tell a competent clothier you would like to buy a suit, their first response should not be “okay.” It should be “why?”
Why do you want a suit? How often do you wear suits? Any fit issues you run into consistently? We don’t want to just “sell you a suit.” We want to add a versatile piece to your current wardrobe. Fewer pieces, but better quality is the mantra.
What Makes Custom Suits Different?
So, who makes the best men’s suits? I’m glad you asked! Consider these factors. How does the fabric feel? When you grab it in your hand, do wrinkles show up immediately, or does it bounce back? Does it feel soft? Take five different navy color fabrics at versatile price points and various fabric mills and line them up. Look at and feel each one because that’s when you start to see the subtleties of suit fabric weaving. Weight, color, feel, texture, subtle details you can only notice up close. All blue suits are not created equally.
When you find the fabrics you are happy with, measurements and construction details are the next steps. The clothier should be looking at your chest, waist, hip measurements, height, weight, neck size, and the width of your calves and thighs as they create your suit. There is a lot to consider when investing in a suit, so think about these questions. What time of year will you be wearing the garment? Are you rough on your clothing? Do you sweat a lot? Do your thighs rub together when you walk? Do you want to be able to wear the jacket as a sport coat with other trousers/denim in your wardrobe?
Do you go to work and hang up your jacket when you get there? Meaning, are you mostly just in the trousers and shirt? In this situation, over time, the pants tend to end up wearing out quicker than the jacket. Consider buying a suit with an extra pair of trousers to get more life out of the garment as a whole.
Who Makes the Best Suit?
These are the topics we consider when making a garment for someone. The back of the jacket should lay cleanly with no rippling. The sleeve should begin right where the shoulder ends. You should not see lines when you button indicating it is too tight. There shouldn’t be extra fabric hanging anywhere like the sleeves or legs. The pants should lay cleanly in the front and back. And overall, you should feel comfortable and confident.
When a properly fitted custom jacket hugs your shoulders for the first time, and you look in the mirror and feel transformed, THAT is who makes the best men’s suits. And that’s the clothier for you!
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